Gucci vs. Gucci
Men's fashion week already started and the first viral moment was the second collection by Sabato de Sarno for Gucci.
“I read some critics in September who said: ‘Oh, he just did a commercial collection for the brand: blah blah blah.’ This is bullshit.” Sabato De Sarno pulled no punches in a preview, and—while riled by last season’s snipings—he declined to let that rhetorical turbulence affect the course of his menswear debut at Gucci this afternoon. As seen in Vogue.com
It began with a fashion world tremor: Alessandro Michele, renowned for his unique vision, announced his final collection for Gucci. In the weeks following, a buzz of anticipation surrounded Gucci's revelation of Sabato de Sarno as the new creative director. A young talent with a divergent approach from Michele, de Sarno stepped into some rather large shoes. Michele's era at Gucci wasn't just about fashion; it was a cultural phenomenon, crafting moments that transcended the runway and forging a legion of devoted followers. Their reaction to his departure? Let's just say they were less than thrilled.
From the instant de Sarno's appointment hit the headlines, it felt like a collective breath was held, eyes narrowed in scrutiny, almost waiting for a misstep, questioning if he could truly continue the Michele legacy. Personally, I was on the edge of my seat for a different reason. I was eager for a new chapter in Gucci's story, a throwback to the original essence of Guccio Gucci's vision. And in my opinion, Sabato de Sarno hasn't just met this expectation; he's redefined it. But hey, that's just my take. You might see things differently, and that's perfectly fine, but if you need a deeper dive into my thoughts, check out my full review here.
Witnessing Sabato de Sarno's second collection for Gucci cemented my initial impressions. De Sarno masterfully channels an Italian sex-appeal, reminiscent yet distinctively different from the allure we adored in Tom Ford’s Gucci era, Prada’s celebrated past collections, and the early viral days of The Attico. While his vision sharply contrasts with Michele's, its uniqueness is its charm.
Diving into a lighter tangent, this series of collections unearthed a fond memory from my Vietnam journey. There, it's a common sight to see duos or even whole clans decked out in harmonious attire. Visualize a lady garbed in a summer dress splashed with pineapple prints, while her partner sports an identical pattern but in a shorts and shirt combo. This intriguing fashion phenomenon piqued my curiosity, leading me to query a local vendor. Using her own words “This is a sign of love”, a public display of heartfelt connection. This very essence of shared style was reflected in De Sarno's latest men's collection, infusing high fashion with this endearing cultural practice. Now, the challenge lies in convincing my significant other to join me in this stylishly romantic endeavor.
Segueing to the campaign named “Ancora” – translating to "Again", "More", "Yet again" – it's a direct nod to its intention: revisiting familiar styles with a fresh, masculine twist. This notion of 'again' led me down an innovative path. Intrigued by the visual continuity, I embarked on creating a code to analyze the visual similarities between the campaigns. It was a quest to quantify the parallels, to understand the depth of De Sarno's homage to the past while charting a new course. This wasn't just about comparing patterns; it was an exploration of how De Sarno's vision is simultaneously a reverberation and a reinvention of the fashion narrative.
Overall, I find this continuation between men’s and women’s collections calming and reassuring. And overall I like you De Sarno.
Found this so interesting. Can’t wait for more excerpts of your discovery