Fashion Forecasting #5 - Milan Fashion Week
What are the lessons learned from the week that passed and what is going to be hot next Spring Summer.
Milan Fashion Week has drawn to a close, and before we set our sights on the next fashion extravaganza in Paris, let's pause, take a deep breath, and reflect on the whirlwind that was last week. To be honest, it was quite the spectacle.
Beginning with Prada, it undeniably stole the spotlight, according to my data. Prada's show ignited the online chatter, and the reviews were nothing short of stellar. Their presentation was nothing less than spectacular, and it served as an early indicator that "hot pants" will be very hot next Summer. Furthermore, it's worth noting that several common trends emerged among the various Italian fashion houses. The color black made a striking statement, as did the prevalence of ultra-short shorts. Additionally, the incorporation of fringes was a recurring theme seen across the collections of Prada, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Tom Ford, and Dolce & Gabbana. These shared elements underscored a collective vision that resonated throughout Milan Fashion Week.
Milan Fashion Week has traditionally been synonymous with vibrant, eye-catching colors that push the boundaries of fashion. However, it was rather unusual to witness even a Dolce & Gabbana show predominantly adorned in black. This departure from the expected maximalism suggests a potential shift in the fashion landscape, at least for the upcoming season.
The prevalence of black in the collections could indicate a move towards minimalism or a renewed appreciation for the timeless elegance of monochromatic palettes. It's possible that designers are exploring more subdued and sophisticated approaches to fashion, signaling that the era of maximalism may be taking a temporary hiatus. Milan Fashion Week's departure from its colourful reputation raises intriguing questions about the evolving tastes and preferences of the fashion world.
And of course, speaking of maximalism, the Gucci show stirred quite the controversy. This marked the debut for Sabato de Sarno as creative director, and it provided ample fodder for Alessandro Michele's era die hard fans to critique the collection. Naturally, comparisons were drawn between Gucci's latest collection and the designs from Prada and Miu Miu. This parallel is particularly noteworthy since Sabato de Sarno has also contributed to the creative vision of Muccia Prada.
From my perspective, it appeared to be a deliberate nod to the Tom Ford era of Gucci, which wrote it’s own history and brought Gucci back to life financially. However, it's evident that this new direction needs time to settle and fully showcase what a talented creative director like de Sarno can bring to the table. Transitioning from one creative vision to another can be a challenging process, and it will be intriguing to see how Gucci evolves under de Sarno's leadership in the coming seasons.
All in all, it was an immensely enjoyable week of following the shows, with several standout moments. Among these, the presentations by Bottega Veneta, Prada, and MaxMara particularly caught my attention. I'm especially excited about the prospect of donning a chic, boxy short jumpsuit next year.
I love a Wordcloud! I was surprised though not seeing Bottega Veneta there. Among the legacy houses, Bottega's show was my favourite. It feels like Mathieu Blazy doesn't need any storytelling because the clothes are the story. When seeing the show, I found myself wanting to touch, feel the clothes, and be in the atelier to witness how they were made.
You were so gracious with your words about Sabato de Sarno's first show for Gucci. I did feel a disconnect between the theme 'Ancora', the Daria Werbowy campaign picture and what he sent on the runway. It felt like a 'merchandised' collection more than anything for me. And rightly for that reason I couldn't see the dots connecting between the show and the maketing behind it.
It’s less of a surprise considering they I only took into account articles written in English and the fact that the front row sparked so much conversation due to the Jenner situation. People love some gossip however the price to pay is again, all eyes are on the front row and not on the designs.
As for de Sarno, I do understand the general feeling of expecting more from this collection but I also understand the burden that this could be for him.